Winter in West Virginia

Last weekend we took a drive up to West Virginia. The weather forecast called for snow in the mountains so we headed for the Beckley area.

Before reaching the West Virginia state line we took a brief detour just west of Covington, VA. Humpback Covered Bridge, VA

Near exit number 10 off of I-64 lies the oldest remaining covered bridge in Virginia. Built in 1857, the “Humpback Covered Bridge” spans Dunlap Creek and features a unique arched design. It was in use for 72 years until replaced by a steel truss bridge in 1929. The bridge still includes its original support beams and wood decking. Unfortunately, plenty of idiots have gone out of their way to prove their lack of appreciation for the structure by painting and carving their initials and graffiti all over it. Why people feel compelled to do this is beyond me. Somehow the dignity of the old bridge shines through in spite of this.

Back on the road we set our sights on our primary objective, Babcock State Park. Located northeast of Beckley and near the New River Gorge National River, the park consists of over 4,100 acres and one of the most photopraphed grist mills anywhere.Glade Creek Grist Mill - Babcock SP, WV

The Glade Creek Grist Mill was built in 1976 and is a reproduction of Cooper’s Mill which stood where the park’s admin building currently sits. The basic structure was constructed using parts from 3 other old mills, which were dismantled and moved to Babcock SP.

We arrived late in the afternoon. Heavy dark skies were already beginning to blanket the area in a soft layer of powdered snow. I took advantage of the low light conditions to make some long-exposure shots of the stream water. It’s hard to make a bad image of this mill. There are so many good positions and angles to shoot from.

Babcock SP, WV

Winter’s icy fingers crept down the mountains all through the night. We awoke the next morning and were greeted with 6 inches of snow and 20 to 30 mph winds.

The skies were still heavy and the snow continued to pile up.

Glade Creek Grist Mill - Babcock SP, WV

 

 

The weather was supposed to change to partly cloudy by noon but, that never happened. The snow continued to fall and made the area quiet and muffled.

Glade Creek Grist Mill - Babcock SP, WV

 

 

 

Glade Creek Grist Mill - Babcock SP, WV

We arrived back at Babcock just after sunrise and found it untouched and serene. Everything in sight except the moving water was covered with snow.

Glade Creek Grist Mill - Babcock SP, WV

The lack of direct sunlight gave my images the muted colors and almost black and white look that somehow seems to communicate the feeling of winter.

 

On this day the mill was locked and inactive. A glimpse in the window reveals little more than the reflections of the icy world outside.

 

 

If you look carefully at these images you can see the numerous streaks of snow falling when I snapped the shutter.

I could have wandered around the various trails in Babcock State Park all day but, we decided to explore the New River Gorge National River.

 

Hawks Nest SP, WV

 

Hawks Nest State Park is a peak on Gauley Mountain in Ansted, WV. The overlook peers down on New River which is nearly 600 feet below.

Hawks Nest SP, WV

 

An Amtrak passenger train rumbled through the valley far below. The distance makes It look like a toy train set.

The hydro-electric dam seen here was built during the Great Depression. It rerouted water through a tunnel under Gauley Mountain. Unfortunately, the area is rich in silica.  This resulted in over 700 unprotected tunnel workers dying of silicosis. Known as the “Hawks Nest Incident“, it was one of the worst industrial disasters in American history.Grandview - New River Gorge National River, WV

 

 

 

Grandview was our next stop. It’s part of the New River Gorge National River.

Grandview - New River Gorge National River, WV

 

 

The aptly named “Grandview” features a main overlook that is situated 1,400 feet above New River. A horseshoe bend in the river results in a sweeping panoramic view. I’ll bet this is breathtaking on a bright colorful fall day.

 

Our brief winter visit to West Virginia was a joy. We’re already thinking about our return and what else we want to see.

Chincoteague NWR Eagles Rebuilding Nest

Superstorm Sandy took its toll on more than just humans in October. Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge on the Virginal coast has been home to a pair of Bald Eagles for several years. Their nest was in a grove of pine trees approximately 500 feet from the wildlife loop road. Unfortunately, the storm blew down several trees including the one holding their nest. It was a sad sight to behold.

This pair has no home. 🙁

According to the Virginia Department of Game and Inland Fisheries, the Bald Eagle mating season along the Chesapeake Bay begins in November and can last through mid-July. Most eggs are laid from mid-January to late February.

It can take 3 months to build a nest so there’s no time to waste.

 

Fortunately, we found our eagles hard at work building their new nest in the same grove of trees.

We watched for hours as both birds brought limbs and other materials from the woods to the north.

 

 

Keep in mind that Bald Eagles are huge and have a wingspan of 6 to 8 feet. Look at the size of the limb this one is hauling. It could be 15 feet long!

They have to have massive building materials because the nest will be around 6 feet in diameter. Big enough to hold a full-grown man with room to spare.

 

The eagles took turns flying in limbs while one would stay at the job site carefully fitting the materials into place.

 

 

 

A few times there was a long delay before an eagle returned. We guessed that it might be lunchtime. I was hoping for a flight shot with a fish but, no takeout food was brought back.

 

 

 

Nest building is hard work. You have to take a break sometimes.

 

 

 

Nothing compares to the regal look of an adult Bald Eagle. It’s no wonder they were selected as our national symbol.

 

We spent most of our time at Chincoteague this trip watching the eagles but, they weren’t the only game in town.

 

One small group of Snow Geese was out in the pond near the beach road. A hawk flew by and got them excited one too many times so they eventually got up and flew away.

 

Snow_Goose_Moon

 

 

I couldn’t resist shooting this lone Snow Goose with the moon. I had to resort to some Photoshop magic to get both of them in focus.

 

 

 

This little male Bufflehead showed up and gave me another opportunity to hone my “Bufflehead photography” skills. I’m getting better but, they’re still tough to shoot.

 

 

Chincoteague NWR is always a treat. Yes, it’s known for the wild ponies but, the bird photo opportunities are unmatched. It just seems that you can get closer to the wildlife here than most places. The ponds and ditches are near the roads and trails and the birds seem to sense that they are safe here. Long lenses are still needed but, most trips produce several keeper images.

I’m already looking forward to my next visit.

Bombay Hook NWR in Good Light

Another stop last week on our East Coast journey was a visit to Bombay Hook National Wildlife Refuge. It’s located on the Delaware Bay northeast of Dover. The refuge covers 16,251 acres. A portion contains several ponds and ditches along a 12-mile network of gravel roads. It offers everything that migratory waterfowl could dream about.

This year is their 75th anniversary!

 

Our last visit to Bombay Hook was on November 25, 2008. By coincidence we visited on exactly the same date this year, November 25, 2012. Weird!

This image is from 2008 and shows the tens of thousands of Snow Geese that were there at the time. This year we saw a couple of relatively large flights right after sunrise but, that was it. They were just flying over and never landed. That surprised us a bit because we had seen a few thousand down at Lake Mattamuskeet and figured most of the Snow Geese must still be further north. We had expected to see large numbers at Bombay Hook. Oh well…

The weather was a vast improvement over Lake Mattamuskeet. We still had to deal with the wind but, we had MUCH better light for photography. The gray-gloomy conditions were replaced by nice partly clouded skies.

One glance at this Mallard and you can immediately see what good lighting conditions will do for you. All of those beautiful iridescent feathers simply pop in the sunshine. No amount of post processing can make up for a lack of beautiful natural light.

 

An even better example is this Green-winged Teal. I managed to make this image at the exact moment when the sun struck his signature green wing. That’s no Photoshop gimmickry…those green feathers really are that brilliant!

 

 

Here’s another one that I shot in the Bear Swamp Pool area. His wing position is mostly hiding the green feathers. He’s still a dapper fellow and one of my favorite ducks.

Teal are much smaller than Mallards and quite speedy fliers.

 

The Teal may be small but, this next little guy is tiny. He’s a Bufflehead and is a diving duck. They nest in old woodpecker holes. Usually Northern Flickers or Pileateds.

The Bufflehead is a challenge to photograph for two reasons. First there’s tons of contrast between the dark and light areas which makes the highlight detail in the white areas “blow out”. Basically, all of the detail gets lost. Using spot metering helps but, it’s rarely enough. The second problem is that unless you’re shooting in good light the dark area on his head will appear solid black. This little duck has wonderful greens and purples that can only be seen when the light falls just right. Also, note his pink foot just under the water.

Even this lowly Coot looks distinguished and almost professorial under the pleasing glow of early morning golden light. (well, maybe that’s taking things to the extreme)

 

 

 

I’ll close with this image of an immature Red-shouldered Hawk. He’s entranced by the Sweetgum balls. Unfortunately, this image was shot in less than perfect light but, hey! It’s a cool hawk!

For some reason, this has been raptor week. Everywhere we went we saw birds of prey. Hawks, Falcons and Eagles.

 

Bombay Hook NWR did not disappoint. We missed the Snow Geese this year but, that was OK. Once again nature gave us plenty of other beautiful sights to dazzle and leave lasting impressions. Both digital and mental.

Lake Mattamuskeet NWR

My visit last week to Lake Mattamuskeet brought back a lot of great memories.

My Grandfather owned property on the lake until his death in 1982. I went there almost every year from the 1960’s to the 1980’s. Around Thanksgiving and sometimes Christmas, my Grandparents, Uncles, Aunts and Cousins would descend on Fairfield, NC to partake in the duck and goose hunting season. These were opportunities to reconnect with family members while learning and enjoying the outdoors. It seems like only yesterday that we were sitting outside in a circle, plucking ducks while my Grandmother and Aunts were busy in the house preparing dinner. I can still smell the singed down feathers as we completed the final step in the laborious feather plucking process. Ahh…

Lake Mattamuskeet is the largest natural lake in North Carolina. It’s fed entirely by rain water and runoff. Originally, it covered 120,000 acres and was 6 to 9 feet deep. The soil in this area is some of the richest in the world. As a result, interest in draining the lake for farming dates back to the 1700’s. A canal was completed out to the Pamlico Sound in 1837 that reduced the lake to 55,000 acres. It’s only 2 to 3 feet deep now.

By the early 1900’s a plan was hatched to drain the entire lake. The Mattamuskeet Drainage District was formed and the entire lake was drained in 1916, 1920 and again in 1926.  The longest period the lake was dry was for 5 years after the final draining. The coal-fired pumping station, shown here, was built by Morris Machine Works and could lift nearly 13,500 gallons of water per second. At the time, it was the largest facility of its kind in the world. But, the project went bankrupt for the last time in 1932.

President Franklin D. Roosevelt’s Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) was dispatched to Hyde County in 1933 and successfully transformed the old pumping station into the Mattamuskeet Lodge. For 37 years the lodge was operated as a hotel, restaurant and hunting lodge. It was known as the “Goose Hunting Capital of the World”. From 1990 until 2000, local volunteers helped to maintain and preserve the old lodge. But, by the end of 2000, corrosion and deterioration of the structural steel in the building forced its closure and ended all public access.

This year Lake Mattamuskeet greeted us with several interesting wildlife specimens. Tundra Swans are common here during the winter months. Their black bill with a small yellow spot in front of the eyes makes them easy to spot. As their name implies, they breed up in the arctic regions during the summer months and winter along the east and west coasts of the US.

Usually around late November, Snow Geese can be seen on the lake and surrounding fields numbering in the hundreds of thousands. We did see maybe a thousand on the lake this year but, most likely it’s been too warm so far to get the full migration going.

We saw some sizable rafts of ducks. These Northern Pintails were spotted in the early morning flying over the southeast corner of the lake. They may be second to the Mallard in US population but, the Pintail has always been one of my favorites. The body shape and distinctive markings are simply beautiful. They lack the bling of the Wood Duck but, they make up for that in style and grace. They taste good, too. 🙂

 

American Wigeon ducks were well represented this year, too. Our first day at the lake we saw numerous Wigeon mixed in with thousands of Coots.

 

 

 

I’m cool with the Wigeon but, who ordered all of these Coots?

 

 

 

This female Lesser Scaup came out of a raft of ducks further out in the lake. It zoomed by me like an F-18 with 25 to 35 mph winds blowing from the northwest. These diving ducks are another hunter’s favorite.

 

 

Bald Eagles used to be a rare sight here back in the 1960’s, 70’s and 80’s. I’m happy to report that they’re doing quite well now. We saw maybe nine over a day and a half. I shot this young adult through the sunroof as we were driving down the causeway. Good thing I wasn’t driving and had my camera at the ready. Nikon D800 with the 500 f/4 hand held.

 

The American Kestrel is the smallest falcon in the US and as fierce as it is beautiful. I’ve always wanted to photograph one of these but, they are very wary. This little guy would fly from tree to tree along the wildlife road never letting us get too close. He stayed in the same general area but always a bit out of reach even though we had big glass.

 

We took a drive over to nearby Pungo Lake and were rewarded by spotting this immature Red-shouldered Hawk. Unlike the Kestrel, we were relatively close to this guy. Most hawks and falcons have a huge “comfort zone” and immediately fly when a human starts to intrude.

Pungo Lake is actually part of the Pocosin Lakes NWR. Like Lake Mattamuskeet NWR, it’s also a sanctuary for migratory waterfowl. But, on this day we didn’t see any. Maybe they were out in the fields somewhere. Who knows and who cares? We saw a cool hawk! Nuff said…

The dark gray overcast skies and VERY windy conditions made photography a challenge but, it was worth it. I spent some cherished time with my cousins, Jim and Bill. Lake Mattamuskeet graced us with a couple of days filled with wildlife and more importantly, the experience of being alive and outdoors. I may “hunt” with a camera these days instead of a shotgun but, the feelings are the same.

So many great memories…

Cades Cove – Autumn Begins

We took a brief overnight trip up to the Smoky Mountains. Summer’s over and Autumn is just starting to creep into Cades Cove. The leaves are still green but, the transition has begun.

There’s something beautiful to be found in the Cove regardless of the season. Here on Hyatt Lane the morning haze is burning off while the clouds are still gathered on the mountains. A view like this is certainly a feast for the soul. What a splendid way to begin the day!

 

Who’s the king of the mountain?

 

 

Now, fast forward to the end of the day and the White-tailed Deer are beginning their annual rut.

It’s time to determine the king of the mountain!

 

 

Two contenders face off in a ritual that will determine who gets to continue his bloodline.

 

 

 

These bucks may have been best friends for the past 9 months but now they will fiercely battle until one is the victor.

 

 

 

Antlers slam together and heads twist to gain a possible advantage.

 

 

 

 

In the end, one will “turn tail and run”.

 

 

 

 

Although the summer has been somewhat dry, there was a storm the day before we arrived. All of the streams were flowing and making that soothing sound that can melt away your cares.

 

 

 

The old Cable Grist Mill has sufficient water flow and is fully operational.

 

 

 

The wheel still goes round and round.

 

 

 

 

Our short two-day trip to the mountains was a success. We witnessed the awe and beauty of nature, recharged our batteries and are ready to press on.